Did you do any finishing work over the nails? Things You'll Need Line the bottom and top of the trim with construction adhesive. Mark, sorry to hear this. In theory, most projects involve rooms that have three or four walls and corners that are perfectly square. Once upon a time this house had tile baseboards. I prefer to install the baseboards first. Rubber transition pieces are offered by a number of different companies and they come in many different shapes and sizes.
What's his professional basis for this statement? Butt your base into the cabinet kick, run your shoe full perimeter. If there are gaps behind the molding and no stud to nail into, squeeze a bead of construction adhesive on the back of the molding at those spots and nail the molding to the studs, as above. It looks like I should cope it, I think. But a few things come to mind: 1. There may be another option without tearing it all out.
You want to make sure your floors are level, or the floor could peek out of your baseboard at certain points and look off. I think you just about covered everything! Order the shoe from the cabinet company for in front of the cabinets, run your oak shoe on the walls. Start by measuring and cutting your outside corners. Then you will have to take off the baseboards the next time you change carpet. Tap nail heads below the wood surface with a nail set. He pulled the carpet back and shoved padding under the low areas to bring it up. I like plain walls, he likes a feature wall so my plain ones I painted look like skating rings so smooth and lovely, his is patchy all over and he says will do it again later! Definitely use caulk instead of spackling in anything that has any movement to it which are all your joints.
Another alternative would be spacing all baseboard off the floor and then installing quarter-round or shoe molding to cover the gap. You could potentially get one that just covers the edge of the higher surface and gives it a finished look. We knock these out after a room has been nailed. Remove the marked board and place the one that will make up the miter's other half against the adjacent wall. I was also happily surprised at the price too. Just measure the boards, cut the miters, and nail the trim in place.
So not only does one have to get the miter correct, but cut it at some angle so that it again fits without a noticeable gap at the miter. A power miter saw is the ideal tool for these due to ease of use and efficiency. I'll add some more, I worked at both boxes, I think you still have leverage, it'll most likely come out of the installers pocket. When the wall is out of square, some adjustment may need to be made to get the boards to look current. Thanks so much for your note and stopping by: Dont feel bad about three years Wendi, we bought an old cottage and renovated and when kids came along extended out and up and down! Quote: The best way , if you can do it, would be to add on to the bottom of the base in the bad area and scribe.
I really appreciate all the responses! These are of what my house looks like today. We recently had our smaller bathroom gutted and updated. These hard metal transitions are often used in commercial applications, so you know that they will be very durable regardless of the amount of traffic that goes over them. I cut in the top by hand and just gave them a quick paint job. Then dry-fit the baseboard back onto the floor and make sure it lines up evenly with the chalk line on your wall. Nail the trim to the wall, using a nail gun or hammer to install nails every 6 inches along the trim, or wherever you have studs in your wall.
Installing the straight planks against the uneven wall often leaves unsightly gaps. I learn new things every day from people like you and I respect your skills. Of course, most modern homes will have the traditional—and ubiquitous—single board 3. If you're looking for a tighter fit or you're installing baseboards which won't take paint or additional caulking, learn how to. The joints required are simple butts, miters, and copes, and the same basic installation steps apply to all trimwork.
Use finishing nails to put top trim piece on. In other words, it was just a convenience thing! I have a small wet rag in my other hand. Installing the sloped molding piece does impose some interesting work with making the miter cuts on the ends. To clarify a bit: This was not a new construction. It may also involve some planing and sanding of the molding surfaces at the joint to blend it around the corner. Walls never seem as straight as they should be, and molding in itself is never perfect. Plus, you can use them on any type of flooring material.